The screen starts to take shape, I have a long way to go, of course, but large parts end up in the right place. Regarding the color, I try a concept within the home theater builder concept with the color “black widow”. I have ordered an aluminum base color from Auto Air Aluminum which I will mix with my gray color in shade S1500. Have just grounded with S1500 without AAA and I think the contrast is totally okay so looking forward to testing with AAA. The reason for widow black is to get a as neutral background for the projectors to shoot at as possible. Read more about the German project with Widow Black here. https://www.hometheatershack.com/threads/black-widow-the-german-experience-for-beginners.73479/
I have painted the ceiling black to shut out as much light as possible, the screen at the bottom I will paint black later. Likewise, I mounted the projector temporarily just to test that warp image. Later on when I know to 100% where the overhead will be placed, I will probably have to move the projectors so that they are not obscured by the cockpit.
I also tested warpeing the image with Fly Elise software. However during the week will try Warpalizer software for which I have a license key. These are heavy and advanced programs so I just see what path I choose to hike after trying them both for a while.
I finally got the 3D printer on and started the job of printing rudder pedals. At least I will try to see if a 3D print can handle the power that arises from a hard sideway wind on short final. Otherwise I may have them manufactured in steel or chased by an affordable pair of OEM pedals. 5 and a half days Heavy print may be subjected to stress test and I will then evaluate.
Finally I came across a steering tiller sickly cheap. It’s OEM I know it’s not the Boeing 737, but the feel of the metal is cruel! Will modify some things and paint it and install as soon as I have the opportunity and sidewalls up there.
Okay, finally a little progress, The screen starts to emerge. The idea from the beginning was to build The screen in 4 sections so that if it need to be moved in the future it would be a relatively simple procedure. As I thought and build, all the joints between the 4 units will become somewhat visible. So I changed my plan and finally screwed the whole structure together in one piece and fastened it to the walls and ceiling.
Also, I was thinking of making the screen 1300 mm high as the final image will be, but my friend told me to extend the HDF board down to the floor and paint the superfluous surface black instead, so the dimensions today become less important at height. So of 2″3 wood I extended the construction at the bottom by 500mm.
The diameter for me is max 3 meters. Have tried the distance with my projectors so it should go well. The goal picture was to get as close as possible to 4 meters as it gives good distance and space around the simulator but I simply do not have that space. 3 meters in diameter will do for me, should go well not optimal but good.
The screen now feels stable and so far I am very pleased. I have added PDF file with my dimensions in the Download section of the website.
I have added a link “memes”. Aviation related memes that I come across I will post here on the site.
In the actual construction of the simulator and the other projects I have started, I am still planning. My approach to rebuilding is that I should not regret a few weeks after installation but that the quality should be high and well thought out before i build.
Sitting at the time of writing and projecting the curved screen itself.
In the meantime, I will continue to show other bloggers that is building simulators that probably helped me without their knowledge. Today I want to show Peter’s blog www.buildaboeing.com.
Peter is a Danish guy who blogs at an incredibly high level of detail on parts of his project. Build A Boeing . com is a must to follow if you like me do a lot of DIY. I may not fancy all his ideas, but the knowledge he shares is amazing. If you have not already come across his blog, be sure you check it out.